Color Magazine Online

The new "must-dine" for Progressive American cuisine

During the recent economic slump many restaurants closed or changed formats to unexciting but financially stable steakhouses. A sure sign of the impending turnaround of the local economy is the opening of new and adventurous dining spots. Stepping into the shoes (both literally and figuratively) of relocated local fave EVOO, chef Keith Pooler's new eatery, Bergamot, aims to serve his brand of ethnic New American food to foodies looking for the sumptuous local fare he perfected at Harvard Square's Harvest.

Upon first blush, Bergamot has a casual, but cool vibe. As you enter the restaurant, you are greeted by warm earth tones and a cool, contemporary décor. The interior is sophisticated, with low-level lighting, artwork from noted local artists and smooth mood music; in fact, the dining room has anechoic tile, which provides a hushed and intimate setting for couples or small dinner parties. At the rear of the restaurant, a small bar holds sway, and the de rigueur open kitchen showcases the culinary theater. The service is attentive, and the servers are knowledgeable, polished and comfortable making suggestions, without being pushy or intrusive. One classy touch is that even when a single glass of wine is served (I tried the 2008 Terre Dorées Beaujolais Blanc), the server presents the bottle and provides a tasting of the wine before he completes the service, as is normally done for bottle service. These details enhance the dining experience and turn first time diners into repeat customers.

In fact, if there is one drawback to the ambience, it is that the indirect lighting is too indirect. Were I not seated near the front window, with the light from the street signs pouring onto my table, I would not have been able to discern the elaborate plating and presentation of my meal. That is a shame, as the presentation of the dishes is impressive and enticing; if that hoary old chestnut that "First, you eat with your eyes" holds any water (personally, I eat with my mouth, it tastes better that way), then your eyes will be sated. I started with a trio of appetizers; the pea green salad with English peas, pea shoots, Berkshire ham and a panko-crusted fried egg was bright and verdant; the sweetness of the peas was offset by a sharply acidic truffle vinaigrette; it challenged the palate, but didn't overwhelm the dish; the crunch of the egg provided a needed textural contrast that, like most good dishes, left me wanting more.

Continuing on the theme of presenting multiple versions of the same ingredient, the "Duck, Duck, Duck" salad highlighted the "it" protein of the moment, duck, as a confit, prosciutto and a crackling. Served over delightfully bitter frisée and shaved mil ovejas cheese, each style of duck had a wonderful flavor and textural addition to the dish, although I would have preferred the duck crackling, as a bacon imitator, to be served warm. Finally, the pan-roasted quail was technically well-executed, but the secret hit of the dish was the sweet grape compote in the jus - it elevated the dish from good to great, and, as uncouth as it was, I used the fresh baked sunflower bread to sop up every delightful drop.

The entrees were as elegantly plated, but one clearly outshone the other. Chef Pooler's tendency to prepare the main ingredient in multiple ways backfired in the pork tenderloin with chicharrones. While the presentation was attractive, the pork itself was relatively bland, and a searingly hot fava puree dominated the flavor profile of the dish to its detriment; furthermore, while the tenderloin was prepared correctly, the chicharrones were chewy, rather than crispy. If not for the unfortunately spicy puree, the star of the dish would have been the shiso-glazed seared eggplant - I could not stop eating it, and it blended immaculately with the tenderloin.

On the other hand, the pan-seared halibut had a fantasticly crisp sear, with a buttery, flaky texture that was complemented by the sweetness of the leeks and carrots; the citrus herb beurre blanc sauce converted this American dish into one that could have been served in any of the city's finer French establishments, a tribute to the classical technique and skill of Pooler.

Finally, the dessert course was pretty, and gone far too quickly. As they were out of their signature dessert, "That Grapefruit Dessert" (a frothy concoction of grapefruit, sabayon, sorbet, and a white chocolate Madeleine), I experimented with the Guajillo Chile Chocolate pavé (think a salted caramel and a roll of chocolate frosting) and the Meyer lemon pudding cake; I found the pavé to be a little heavy, but bona fide choco-philes will delight in it. On the other hand, the pudding cake, a seasonal special, needs to find a spot on the regular menu immediately; it was served with a coconut sorbet that accented the citrus-sweetness of the Meyer lemon, and made the dessert the perfect capper to the meal.

Bergamot is a worthy successor to the culinary legacy left by EVOO, and for the most part, Pooler's aspirations to be the new "must dine" for New American hit the mark; his purveyors are local, his food is impeccable, and his wine list is formidable. Bergamot fits the bill for a clean, elegant and satisfying dining experience.

Bergamot is located at 118 Beacon Street, Somerville, MA 02143. For reservations call 617-576-7700, or check out their website at www.bergamotrestaurant.com.