Color Magazine Online

Before ever stepping foot into the foyer of Harvest, I imagined a bountiful table overflowing with dishes with the simplicity of hearty New England cuisine reigned elegant and supreme. Once inside, the décor achieved a rustic New England ambience, albeit a sedate one. The sturdy looking wicker chairs were surprisingly comfortable. There was a painting of a field of corn that made me think of Jean-François Millet's painting, "The Gleaners," of three poor women picking up the remaining grain in a field. The view of the outdoor fireplace in the courtyard seemed both charmingly eccentric and a tad Masterpiece Theatre-ish. At the early dinner hour of 6:00 p.m., the bar area was packed and lively. In this area of the restaurant, they serve the less expensive Small Bites $3-$13 and Bar Bites $10-$24 menu.

The Harvest Charcuterie ($15) appetizer consisted of prosciutto, venison prosciutto, duck liver mousse, olives, cornichons, sausage and caperberries. It was a nice mix of meat, veggie and toppings to choose from. The Truffled "Bacon & Egg" ($13) was wrapped in plastic, poached in truffle oil - so water never touched the egg. The result is a perfectly moist egg. The Jonah Crab Salad ($13) and the Smoked Torchon of LaBelle Farms Foie Gras ($18) were both impressive. The crab was simply lovely and the Granny Smith apples accented the freshness of the salad. The foie gras was smooth and flavorful smeared on some bread. My favorite was the crab salad; the delicate and fresh flavors prepared my palate for dinner and awakened my tongue.

Unlike some places that serve minute portions and charge more for this distinction, Harvest's portions were adequate. You won't be hungry after ordering the Atlantic Arctic Char ($30) or the Ribeye Au Poivre ($36), which came with five tender pieces. I couldn't stop eating the wild mushroom potato risotto; the plentiful potatoes tasted like creamy, square-shaped, scalloped potatoes and went well with the beef.

Chef Mary Dumont popped over to say hello during our meal. It was great to see a youthful female chef "manning" the kitchen effortlessly. I had been told about her Iron Chef America appearance back in October 2006 and knew she had also worked in San Francisco and Chicago. Harvest has been a fixture of Harvard Square for decades. Ivan Law, general manager at Harvest, explained that the old Harvest was known more as a bar and eventually evolved into the fine dining establishment it is today.

Harvest would be my recommendation for a genuine Harvard Square dining experience. Can't deny the location and history.